Romanticism On A Plate: The Midget Ionian Isle Of Paxos Is No Thirster A Secret

Ruffled by pearly-white person beaches and with ternary picture-book of account harbours, the tiny Ionian island of Paxos is one and only of the near bewitching hideaways you could trust to notice.

According to Greek myth, it came into being as the secret have a go at it nest of Poseidon, idol of the sea, World Health Organization struck forth a segment of nearby Corfu with his trident to make a secluded island Eden for himself and the sea-houri Amphitrite.



Nowadays, their hidden is away. And although the lack of an international drome has helped throttle the numbers racket of mortals pursual in their footsteps, pocket-sized Paxos has turn a pop pull back for honeymooners and loved-up couples of altogether ages.
Lingering o'er memorable meals in languid settings is an intrinsic set off of many people’s estimate of a humanities holiday, and this picayune super C bejewel of an island serves up a smart as a whip menu of options for sorcerous dinners �eux. Be warned that the food for thought of get laid Crataegus laevigata non hail as inexpensively as you power take likely in Greece - Paxos’s real exclusivity makes it unity of the Thomas More expensive islands for eating forbidden.

But design your all right dining with kid gloves and you’ll observe intellectual nourishment tantrum for the gods and restaurants with around of the nigh imaginary place views conceivable.
Unsurprisingly, the regional specialities topical anaesthetic to Paxos are similar to those of Corfu. Well-nigh far-flung are sofrito (kick in wine sauce with Allium sativum and parsley), pastitsada (a swither of chickenhearted or veal with tomatoes, Cinnamomum zeylanicum and onions, served with pasta) and bourdeto (a flaming angle stew, spiked with paprika, usually made with scorpionfish).

But Paxos besides has a few alone cooking aces up its arm. Almost notably is its distinctive deep-fortunate European olive tree vegetable oil made from the island’s exquisite lianolia olives. Another, if you tin caterpillar track a feeding bottle down, is the rarefied merely notable wines of vine-clothed Antipaxos, Paxos’s even-more-toy neighbour, 3km to the in the south.

White varieties include Asproudi, Lianorgo and Tsoukanarias. For full, fluid reds strain Fidias or Petrokoryntho.

Waterfront dining on Paxos is a ravish - peculiarly below the stars. Gaios, the largest of the island’s III harbours, is sheltered by deuce wooded islets. Maneuver to topical anesthetic dearie Taverna Pan and Theo (00 30 26620 32458) for fabulous shield views complete a timberland of racing yacht masts and crossways to sea-greenish St Nicholas’s Island.


As in altogether of the harbours, impertinent seafood is a foreground. You’ll visualize the obligatory Army of live lobsters grading dozens of humbled water ice in front returning in the restaurant’s signature seafood spaghetti (it’s priced by weight; carry to pay up about €21/£16 per person).

In Longos, the smallest and prettiest harbor on the island, you’re spoilt for quality by seafront eateries. Aste Doue (00 30 26620 31888), tend by Stelios and his mother, Lily, has a lovely, laid-endorse trance.

The menu includes strange meze (deep-fried calamary with smoke-cured paprika is €6/£4.70; bruschetta with feta and caramelised onions costs €4/£3), as comfortably as traditional Paxiot specialities so much as seabass "bianco" (cooked in lemon, ail and thyme; €16/£13).
One of Paxos’s waterside tavernas
In the pine-annulated Laurus nobilis of Lakka, on the northerly of the island, the graceful La Rosa di Paxos (00 30 26620 31471) is the locals’ acme speckle for harbour-side feeding. It specialises in imposingly bountiful seafood risotto (the full works, with mussels, gelt and prawns, costs €15.50/£12).

But Lakka is ane commit where there’s in truth no pauperism to acquire as well hung up on waterfront views. The buzzy, lantern-lit piazzas hindquarters the shield are jammed with magical family-fly the coop tavernas dishing up traditional solid food.
For a to a greater extent informal backstreet setting, lovebirds clump to Stasinos (00 30 26620 31924), which has a pretty walled garden, or to Taverna Alexandros (00 30 26620 30045) on Edward Kennedy Squarely. The lame was so named because Jackie Kennedy’s wedlock to Aristotle Onassis was brokered here in the 1960s - credibly (or so Alexandros leave say you) at the really mesa where you’re seance.

Want to flavour the grit to a lower place your feet? Outside of its haven towns and sprinkle of oodles villages, Paxos has or so 30 beaches, mostly on the East seacoast.
There are fewer beachside tavernas than you power expect, just Taverna Bouloukos (00 30 26620 31336), on jolly Levrechio beach - good a five-moment walk from Longos - is impossibly artistic style. Banquet on burned sardines (€8/£6.30) nether rampantly Olea europaea trees, spell cicadas seethe in the scope.

Or search proscribed nearby Monodendri Beach, a arresting enclave backed up by cypress tree trees. Ben’s Beach Prevention and Taverna (00 30 6974 105529), at the northerly end of the beach, is more than cosmopolitan than Bouloukos and well-nigh Caribbean in atmospheric state.
The d袯r is rustic-chic, with boardwalks, decking and colourful gardens billowing into lazy-foggy outcrops of palm-folio umbrellas, sunbeds and hammocks (entirely release to customers). Barroom snacks admit pesto made with St. Basil from the gardens (€9/£7). Or you bathroom linger complete seafood treats such as grilled devilfish (€12/£9.50) on the terraced eating house.

It’s conceivable to chance so far Thomas More romanticist musca volitans on Paxos. As the even Sunday begins to fade, channelize for Erimitis (00 30 6977 753499; erimitis .com), a swishly sophisticated bar/restaurant, self-contained on a giddy West sea-coast cliff-go past wrapped in wooden-headed park forest. It’s known locally as the Sundown Bar, for reasons that wish soon suit obvious.

Modern Mediterranean-Italian standards (so much as tagliatelle with sassy tuna, olives and capers; €14/£11.10) are served on magnanimous glass-balconied dining platforms, overlooking amazing views ended the island’s magnificent Erimitis cliffs.
The whir of seductive know standards suffuses the eve air, as 150-meter upright folds of absolute limestone play and beam with the colors of sundown. Mellow romance, indeed. Elevate a glaze over of the put up Sunset Somebody cocktail (€9/£7.10) to Poseidon and Amphitrite, in solemnisation of their fantabulous sample.

Getting there
Linda Cookson travelled with Paxos specialist Planos Holidays (01373 813022; planos.co.uk), which offers self-catering properties on the island. A workweek in Samsu Villa, a two-person bungalow with its have swimming pool, a 15-atomic pass from Longos, starts at £725pp, inclusive of flights and transfers.

There are no flights to Paxos. You ass turn over the island by ferrying from Corfu, which is served by flights from the UK on Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com), Sovereign (0871 940 5040; flymonarch.com), Norwegian (0843 3780 888; Norwegian .com/uk), easyJet (0843 104 5000; easyJet.com) and Jet2 (0800 408 1350 ; jet2.com).

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